Paint is a combination of pigments, resins and binders in a solvent. Applied usually through spraying, the paint cures as the solvent evaporates, leaving behind a film which then forms the finish.

Paint is essentially composed of mixture of a binder that enables the paint to stick on to the surface; pigments, to give the paint color, making it opaque and occasionally to prevent corrosion; and solvents to make paint spreadable.

Solvents are classified according to their rate of evaporation:

1. Active – fast evaporation, strong cutting action, dust free.
2. Latent – slower evaporation and enables chemical to settle during drying.
3. Diluent – very slow evaporation.

When looking for the right paint to use, it is important to know and consider the important qualities of paint.

a. Cohesion – this pertains to the compatibility, with regards to reaction, of the paints components.
b. Adhesion – this pertains to the ability of the paint to stick on to something.
c. Strength – this pertains to the ability of the paint to withstand stress; the quality of being strong.

1. To keep the wood clean
2. Improve the appearance of wood
3. To protect and stabilize the wood against

I. Cracking

II. Cupping

III. Fading

IV. Splintering

V. Mild Dew

VI. Nail Popping

VII. UV Damaged

VIII. Warping

1. Fast Dry

>Thinner Quality

Contains a balanced formulation of active. Latent and Diluent solvents to control drying, prevent               blushing and for better solvency.

2. Quick Build Up!

> Faster Recoat Time

Quick paint build-up by minimizing dry time for recoating

>High Solids

Minimize recoating and save on

3. Minimize Wood Movement!

>The general rule, the thicker the coating of finish the better it limits moisture exchange.

4. Freedom of Color + Gloss!

>Color Rematching and Color Development

>Available in Matte, Gloss and in-between.

5. Technical Support!

>Site Evaluation

>Product Demonstration

>Technical Training

>Troubleshooting

On-site Posting

A finish is a decorative and/or a protective coating applied to an object to either change or enhance its appearance, or protect it from wear and tear.

We finish to keep the substrate clean (sanitation); to protect and stabilize the wood through encapsulation, thus minimizing moisture exchange; and to beautify, making the substrate more pleasing to look at.

When we talk about examples of finishes, we are dealing with paints, lacquer, oil and varnishes.

Lacquer is a term that is somewhat vague which can apply to two things:
a. The product itself, which is a liquid whose composition is consisting of “solids”, dissolved in a “solvent”.

b. The finish. When the product (above) is applied, the solvents evaporate leaving behind just the “solids:, which form a hard clear protective film.

Lacquer and varnish differ in:
a. Mode of application. Lacquer is usually applied by spraying on to the surface whereas varnish is a brush- or sponge-on finish.
b. Dry time. Lacquer is usually a fast-drying product which is easy to apply and gives a thin hard finish while varnish usually takes much longer to dry and gives a thicker finish.
c. Use. Lacquer is used as a topcoat, the final protective coat which is applied to wood, metal, or some painted surfaces to seal in and protect all of the finishes and materials beneath it. Whereas varnish does not stay on the surface but penetrates the interior of the wood, protecting it from moisture exchange, although it doesn’t form a protective film or coat.

Lacquers dry entirely by the evaporation of their solvent. The dried film will re-dissolved in its original solvent.

Most often than not, Lacquers are clear, transparent, fast drying coats.

Lacquers are normally thermoplastic solution paints; often used to describe all clear wood finish.
Enamel, on the other hand, dries through oxidation or polymerization, which is the combining of individual molecules to form larger molecules.

This new film will not re-dissolve in its original solvent. Also, enamels are durable and opaque coatings. Enamels are thermosetting paint, hard, with a superficial resemblance to vitreous enamel.

Lacquers have a tendency to life enamel surfaces. Lacquer will work over most fully cured enamels that have good film integrity. But it is advisable to remove whatever enamel paint is on the substrate before applying the lacquer.

Very important; in fact, surface preparation is a key to a successful finish. No matter how good or skillful the finishing personnel or how good the paint quality is; if the surface is not well cleaned or prepared, then all will just be a waste.

Yes, it is very important. Sanding ensures good mechanical adhesion of paint to the surface; it also even out the surface of the substrate; it helps in minimizing paint consumption; promotes paint build up; and removes contaminants on the surface of the substrate.
Be sure to remove sanding dust from the surface with a dry cloth before applying paint.

The sanding process can start with 100 or 120 grit papers to correct surface defects. But make sure to finish with 180 grit Aluminum Oxide semi-open coat for timber; while 240 – 320 grit Aluminum Oxide Semi-open Coat for Medium Density Fiberboards (MDF).

No. SPARKO lacquers are wood lacquers; hence concrete application is not advisable or possible. But SPARKO lacquers can be applied over to metals with the use of a primer.

The above mentioned terms refer to the gloss level or sheen of the paint. These gloss level would really make a difference depending on which one does a customer prefer. The gloss level or sheen simply means the degree of light reflectance of the paint.

High gloss (70 – 90 on a 60° gloss meter angle)

Semi-gloss (35 – 70 on a 60° gloss meter angle)

Satin or Silk (25 – 35 on a 60° gloss meter angle)

Egg shell (10 – 25 on a 60° gloss meter angle)

Velvet (10 on a 60° gloss meter angle)

Flat/matte (0 – 5 on a 60° gloss meter angle)